Where to stay in the Luberon: choosing the right village
- rebeccacoulliais
- Feb 5
- 5 min read
Choosing where to stay in the Luberon can have a real impact on how your stay unfolds. While distances on the map may seem short, village life, market days and winding roads mean that the actual village you choose really influences your daily experience. Some areas lend themselves to staying close to base and slowing right down, while others make it easier to explore widely-discovering different villages, markets and restaurants along the way.
How do I get to the Luberon? Understanding the region.
The Luberon is a region of inland Provence, that lies to the east of Avignon and to the north of Aix-en-Provence. It is famous for its hilltop villages, wonderful wineries, markets and food culture and great weather. It’s not one town, or one valley, it’s a collection of landscapes and villages and a way of life, now preserved under the banner of the “Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon”. The locals speak in terms of the North Luberon (everything from Saignon to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue) and South Luberon (from Lourmarin to Pertuis). The Combe de Lourmarin, a winding mountain pass, separates Lourmarin from Saignon and the northern Luberon.
Do you need a car to visit the Luberon?
The short answer is yes. While the region is compact, public transport is limited, and most visitors find a car essential for exploring beyond a single village. If you don't want to drive, but are dying to experience Luberon life, an all inclusive retreat would be perfect for you.
Travel to and from the Luberon:
Marseille Marignane Airport
Avignon TGV station
Aix-en-Provence TGV station
It is helpful to know that there is a direct train from Paris CDG Airport to Avignon, it takes approx. 3 hours. Also, Marignane Airport is actually closer to the Aix TGV train station than to Marseille. And finally, both Aix-en-Provence and Avignon have 2 train stations, TGV and centre. The TGV stations are not central at all. If you want to arrive in the city centre you will need to take another train (TER regional train) or a taxi or bus.
Should I choose village life or countryside calm for my Luberon stay?
Some people are drawn to the energy of a larger town, such Isle-sur-la Sorgue, or Apt, the capital of the Luberon. Staying in a more urban setting offers immediate access to shops, museums, restaurants and nightlife, but often means being further from the peace and slower rhythm that defines much of the Luberon.
Others are drawn to the intimacy of a small Provencal village, such as Lourmarin or Roussillon - a place with a handful of shops and restaurants, a weekly market and apartments tucked beneath tiled roofs. This is an ideal choice if you enjoy a morning coffee at the local café, wandering to dinner on foot, and settling into the daily life of one place, without overly relying on a car.
Then there are those that feel most at home in the countryside. Space, quiet and open views are the stars of the show, with days shaped by light, nature and the pleasure of returning to an oasis of calm at the end of the day. Staying rurally means driving to villages, markets and restaurants, but it also allows you to experience more of the region as you move between them, and to enjoy evenings by the pool, watching the sun set over the fields.
There is no right or wrong choice, just what suits the way you personally prefer to travel. Once this first decision is made, choosing the right base in the Luberon becomes easier.
Is it best to stay in a quieter village or a famous one?
The next question is where exactly, to base yourself. The Luberon offers a wide range of villages, each with it’s own atmosphere, rhythm and charm.
Some villages are famous for a reason. Places such as Gordes, Lourmarin and Roussillon are instantly recognisable, beautifully integrated into the landscape and home to some excellent restaurants, boutiques and galleries. They have a strong identity and an immediate holiday atmosphere, making them especially appealing for shorter stays or first time visitors. In high season, however, this popularity brings more visitors, higher accommodation prices and a busier pace.
Alongside these well known names are many lesser known villages that share the same Provencal charm (or sometimes more), often with a quieter, more authentic feel. Villages such as Saignon, Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, Villars or Bonnieux tend to move at a gentler rhythm, with local markets, cafés frequented by locals and a stronger sense of daily village life. They may be less immaculately groomed, but they often offer more space, easier parking and a deeper connection to the locals.
Neither option is inherently better, the choice depends on how you imagine spending your days. Some travellers enjoy the energy and convenience of a village that is quietly buzzing, while others prefer a peaceful base that allows them to explore widely and return to calm at the end of the day.
Is it better to stay in a Luberon village or just outside?
A final consideration, that is often overlooked, is whether to stay within the village itself, or on the outskirts. Both options are very different experiences. Understanding the practical implications can make a big difference to how your trip unfolds.
Staying in the Village
Being based in the heart of a village means that daily life is right on your doorstep- cafés, boulangeries, small shops and some restaurants all within walking distance. It’s an appealing option if you enjoy popping out for a morning coffee, walking home after a meal out, and being part of the village life, as it unfolds around you.
That said, perched villages also come with steep streets, limited parking and a livelier atmosphere, particularly in the height of summer. Carrying shopping uphill or navigating narrow lanes can be part of the charm, but it’s worth knowing in advance if convenience is a priority or there are any mobility issues with people in your group.
Staying Just Outside the Village
Choosing a base just outside a village usually offers some more space, easier access and a greater sense of calm. Properties tend to have room to breathe, with gardens, pools, views and parking close at hand. While driving becomes part of daily life - for markets, restaurants and evenings out - many travellers find that this is a small trade off for the peace and flexibility it affords.
For those planning longer stays, more self catering (and so more shopping) or for those travelling as a family or group of friends, this option often allows for more intimacy and a more relaxed rhythm: days spent exploring widely, followed by quiet evenings away from the bustle.
So finally, where is the best base for exploring the Luberon?
Choosing where to stay in the Luberon is less about finding the “best” village, and more about understanding how you like to travel. Whether you are drawn to village life or countryside charm, iconic names or hidden gems, staying in the heart of a village or taking refuge beyond it, each choice shapes your future experience in a slightly different way.
From our experience hosting guests over many years, the most successful stays are the ones that strike a balance - offering easy access to villages, markets and restaurants, while still providing a sense of retreat at the end of the day. Sitting just north of the Combe de Lourmarin, Saignon and its surrounding countryside, offer that balance particularly well.
Once your base is chosen, you can start to plan your days. Don't forget to take into account all the different market days , when the villages come to life, before settling back into their slow Provencal rythym.
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